Textile Waste Minimisation

I am delighted to introduce you to Rachel Bennett, an artist and crafter based in New Zealand. Rachel responded to an email asking her to share what made her interested in Sashiko, and she told us about her mission to rescue damaged textiles destined for landfill. In honour of Waste Reduction Week happening from October 21-27, Rachel has graciously agreed to share her story with us.

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^{A cushion Rachel stitched for a grandchild using sashiko-style embroidery, fashioned from discarded fabric.}

It is relatively common knowledge that many big names in the fashion industry are responsible for unsafe and unethical workplace practices. But did you know that the fashion industry is also responsible for 8-10% of global carbon emissions^[1] - more than the airline and shipping industries combined?

I have always been an avid thrift shopper. I can honestly say that 90% of my wardrobe has been curated from a thrift shop. A few years ago, I learned that thrift shops world wide throw out up to 70% of the donated garments, bedding and other textiles^[2]. Beautiful denim, merino, wool and even silk items get trashed because of a small hole, stain, or even a missing button. When I find them on the $1 rack or the free bin, I grab them. I have mended dozens of these garments, brought them back to life and added them to my wardrobe. 

Last year, in 2023, I co-founded a textile waste minimisation group in Nelson, Aotearoa (New Zealand). It's called Textile ResQ, and we are focused on combating this issue of textile waste. We partner with a local charity thrift shop (Nelson Tasman Hospice Opshops), and we wash, mend, up-cycle or repurpose as much of the quality natural fibres destined for the landfill as we can. These are returned to the shop in a sellable condition, extending their life and cutting down on waste. The benefits to the thrift shop are less disposal costs and more income, so it's a win-win! 

^{Little softies made from rescued textiles. Image via https://www.textileresq.com/}

All of this work is done by a dedicated volunteer team of skilled sewers, knitters, and passionate environmentalists. My involvement has rejuvenated my interest in sewing and introduced me to various techniques of hand stitching, such as embroidery, visible mending and Sashiko. 

I find this work immensely satisfying. It is mindful, meditative and endlessly creative. Like knitting or crochet, it is portable. I can take my projects anywhere and stitch with friends, outside or watching TV. It feels empowering to extend the life of a garment. It is still useful and no longer contributing to our massive waste issues. What’s more, I have made it unique and perhaps, hopefully, more beautiful.

^{Discarded cloth napkins, revived and turned into cushions by Rachel.}

Starting your own Textile Waste Minimisation Initiative

For the folks who are interested in getting something like this going in their own town, here are some tips that Rachel has provided about the steps she took to get Textile ResQ going.

1. Find a likeminded group of people who are passionate about the environment, fashion, and waste minimisation. This might sound hard, but we’re out there in spades. Many places have Facebook groups  for community members to connect and share news, so you may be able to post there to find your people! We also advertised our first meeting through the local paper and council newsletter.

2. Hold a meeting and make sure everyone is on the same page. We held a meeting at our local library which was advertised through the local paper and council newsletter. Our core members were at the first meeting.

3. Find an op shop/secondhand store willing to partner with you. Ask them about how much donated clothing they receive is actually suitable for resale and what they do with the discarded items. Ask them how much it costs them to dispose of those items. Then explain your initiative of turning a percentage of that into saleable goods for them.

4. Work out the details with the shop. Will you be operating under a certain schedule for picking up damaged items and dropping off repairs? Do they have a dedicated space for your storage of equipment and materials? It can be helpful to know these things ahead of time!

^{Patchwork from rescued textiles. Image via https://www.textileresq.com/}

Be sure to check out the manual published free by Intercept Fabric Rescue in Whangārei, New Zealand.
They partner with the Salvation Army in Whangārei. For the last five years they have steadily increased sales for the Salvation Army while decreasing textile waste dramatically. Our organisation was, and still is, greatly inspired by Intercept. They are very supportive and encouraging and have offered advice when needed. They have inspired five other similar projects in New Zealand, each with their own unique style and label.

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Thanks so much to Rachel for sharing your story with us. You can check out the work Rachel does with Tasman Bay Textile ResQ Collective here! 

[1] https://carbonliteracy.com/fast-fashions-carbon-footprint/ 

[2] https://www.earthday.org/unraveling-the-impact-of-thrifting/