Sashiko Tutorial: Mending with Koshi-Zashi
Apr 14, 2025
As Earth Day approaches, many of us are thinking about how we can reduce waste, care for what we already own, and make more sustainable choices in our everyday lives. Visible mending is a creative and beautiful way to do just that — not only saving garments from the landfill, but also deepening our connection to the things we wear. By spending time nurturing the fabric that protects us every day, we begin to care more for it.
Sashiko is an ancient form of Japanese hand-stitching that began as a practical technique for reinforcing and repairing worn garments using the humble running stitch, especially in rural farming and fishing communities. Over generations, it evolved into both a functional and decorative art form. While Sashiko is now practiced around the world, it remains a treasured tradition in Japan.
In this tutorial, I’ll tie these concepts together and guide you through a simple, sustainable way to mend fabric using a Sashiko-inspired technique called Koshi-zashi — a structured, grid-like stitch that’s both strong and beautiful. Whether you’re extending the life of your jeans or adding thoughtful detail to a well-loved piece, this method invites mindfulness and creativity into the act of repair.
If you prefer to read, you’ll find written instructions below the video.
Materials
- Needle
- Thread
- Scissors
- Patch of fabric the same weight as the material you are mending (for example, denim for denim)
- Safety pins
- Sliver of soap, fabric marker or tailor’s chalk
- Ruler
Getting started
For the best results, I recommend using a traditional Sashiko needle and thread, as they’re designed for this specific style of stitching — the needle is longer, allowing you to load several stitches at once, and the thread is tightly twisted and strong. But if you don’t have these on hand, don’t worry! A crewel embroidery or darning needle works well, and you can substitute #8 pearl cotton, or four strands of embroidery floss for Sashiko thread.
Prepare a fabric patch that’s at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) larger than the hole on all sides. This gives your repair extra strength, since the surrounding fabric is likely to be worn and prone to further fraying. For a neater edge, you can fold and press the patch before stitching.
Place the fabric patch over the hole and pin in place using safety pins or your preferred pin. I like safety pins because they will not fall out, or inadvertently stab you whilst you are mending!
Using a ruler and a sliver of soap or fabric marker, measure out a 1/2 inch (1cm) grid over the area you wish to stitch (in my case the entire area of the patch). Using imperial measurements allows for a little extra space between stitches, compared with metric.
Using the grid as a guide, stitch 1/2 inch (1cm) stitches along the vertical length of the patch, leaving a small space where the grid lines meet. You may wish to stop at this step, as this has patched the hole and strengthened the jeans in this entire area. Remove safety pins.
Continuing to use the grid as a guide, stitch ½ inch (1cm) stitches along the horizontal access of the patch, leaving a small space where the grid lines meet.
Your stitches will now form a grid-like pattern. And you now have a very beautifully mended pair of jeans, saved some money, and hopefully found peace of mind as you stitched.
This is just one way to approach visible mending using a Sashiko-inspired technique. There are many methods and interpretations, and each stitch is an opportunity to connect with your clothes in a more mindful, creative way.
By choosing to repair rather than replace, you're not only saving a garment — you're also slowing down the cycle of consumption and honouring the resources that went into making it. Visible mending supports a more sustainable, circular relationship with clothing, where wear and imperfection are seen not as flaws, but as stories worth preserving.
If you're curious to learn more about traditional Sashiko, I encourage you to explore the work of Japanese artists and teachers who continue to carry this tradition forward with deep knowledge and care - there are some great resources on this page.
If you enjoyed this tutorial, you can download it as a PDF for free here!
This article was originally written for and published on Gaia and Dubos in August 2020. It has been edited and updated for Zen Stitching in April 2025.
