Sashiko-Inspired Mending with Jujizashi

Mending is more than extending the life of our clothing—it’s an act of care, sustainability, and quiet resistance. In a world of fast fashion and disposability, choosing to repair what we own reduces waste, conserves resources, and fosters a slower, more intentional way of living.

Beyond sustainability, mending connects us to generations of handcraft traditions, reminding us that clothing was once made to last. By embracing repair, we reclaim our agency from industries built on planned obsolescence and honour the materials that clothe us.

Sashiko, a traditional Japanese stitching technique, embodies this ethos of mindful repair. Though rooted in Japan, the principles I've been able to glean—reinforcing fabric, embracing imperfections, and finding beauty in mending—can offer inspiration to us all. In this tutorial, we’ll explore how to use the Jujizashi stitch to strengthen and embellish worn textiles with care and respect.

Before we begin...

Before we dive in, I want to acknowledge that I approach this art form as a white Australian woman. I do not consider myself an authority on Sashiko’s cultural and historical nuances, nor an expert in Japanese textile traditions. However, I have spent over a decade studying and practicing Sashiko, alongside repair techniques and mindful stitching. I believe we can respectfully incorporate Sashiko-inspired mending into our everyday repairs while honouring its cultural roots.

This tutorial presents a contemporary approach to mending, adapting traditional techniques for practical use. Through my journey, I’ve discovered that even the smallest stitches can foster mindfulness, sustainability, and creativity.

A Brief History of Sashiko

The word Sashiko translates to "little stab" or "little pierce" and is pronounced sash-co, with a soft, almost silent "i." The practice originated in Edo-era Japan (~1615-1868), where it evolved out of necessity. Running stitches were used to reinforce textiles, extend garment life, and provide additional insulation (source: Sashiko Lab). Over time, the women who practiced Sashiko developed intricate geometric patterns, many of which are still recognized today.

Traditionally, Sashiko featured white stitching on indigo-dyed fabric. This was partly due to sumptuary laws at the time, which restricted lower classes from wearing luxurious fabrics and colours. These limitations may have influenced the development of the fine, rice-grain-like stitches that define Sashiko today. (Source: The Right to Dress, Giorgio Riello and Ulinka Rublack) 

Repairing with Sashiko-Inspired Stitches

Today, we’ll be learning the Jujizashi stitch, also known as the "10 Cross Stitch." This technique reinforces fabric with an elegant, interwoven pattern of intersecting stitches, resembling crosses or the kanji symbol for 10 (十).

Before we begin, I always encourage starting with materials you already have—this allows you to get a feel for the craft before investing in specialized tools. That said, using a Sashiko needle and thread will provide the best results, and I’ll include substitution suggestions below.

Materials You’ll Need

• Needle: A long Sashiko needle is ideal, but a crewel embroidery or darning needle with a large eye and sharp point works too.
• Thread: I recommend Olympus Sashiko thread for its perfect thickness. Alternatively, use #8 pearl cotton or four strands of embroidery floss.
• Scissors: My favourite pair is from Shokunin Store.
• Fabric Patch: Choose a fabric similar in weight to your garment for the best durability-for example, patching denim with denim.
• Pins: I like safety pins best as they won’t fall out or poke you while you mend.
• Fabric Marker/Chalk: I use heat-sensitive or water-soluble markers for easy removal, but always test in an inconspicuous spot first! 
• Ruler: A quilter's ruler is my preference, but you can use a regular ruler, too!

Step-by-Step: Jujizashi Stitch Mending

The first thing you should do is ensure the fabric patch is larger than the area of the hole. The fabric will be well worn in this area and likely to continue to fray, so a larger patch will prevent more patching in the near future.
 

Turn your garment inside out. 

Place the fabric patch over the hole and pin in place. I like safety pins because they will not fall out, or inadvertently stab you whilst you are mending.

Turn the garment right side out again.

Using a ruler and a fabric marker or chalk, measure out a 1/4 inch grid over the area you wish to stitch - in my case, the entire area of the patch. Using imperial measurements allows for a little extra space between stitches, compared with metric.

Using the grid as a guide, stitch ¼ inch stitches along the length of the patch. As you start a new row, alternate the stitch, so every second row is the same.

You may wish to stop at this step, as this has patched the hole and strengthened the jeans in this entire area with what's called Yokogushi, or horizontal rows. Remove the safety pins, and you can wash out your marks now or proceed to the next step to tidy up the hole from the front side and remove all your marks at the end.

Using a lighter weight fabric, cut a patch that will cover the hole. Now that the area is strengthened, this patch is more cosmetic and doesn't need to be as large as the first one. You can keep the edges tidy by folding them under and ironing them in place. Secure the patch over the hole with pins.

Using a whip stitch, sew the patch in place. remove the pins. You can watch my Youtube demonstration for the whip stitch here.

Using a fabric marker, mark the ¼ inch grid on the fabric patch, just like before.

Using a smaller length stitch, sew in alternating horizontal rows across where the lines intersect.

Repeat this process vertically. Your stitches will now form crosses, or the kanji character for 10. That's why this stitch is called Jujizashi, or 10 Cross Stitch! You can now wash out or remove any marks left from your grids - I use heat sensitive and water soluble markers, which are easily removed by the heat or steam spray from my iron. 

Deepen Your Exploration

If you’d like to go beyond this tutorial, I share additional sashiko-inspired techniques in my Domestika course. You'll get a full video demonstration of this stitch, plus two other beautiful Sashiko patterns:

🌸 Komenohanazashi (Rice Flower Stitch)
🌸 Kakinohanazashi (Persimmon Flower Stitch)

Beyond stitches, we also explore the philosophy behind Zen Stitching, the art of mindful repair, and how to embrace slow fashion through textile upcycling.

Sashiko-inspired mending is more than just a repair technique—it's a way to connect with craftsmanship, sustainability, and mindfulness. I hope this tutorial inspires you to try Jujizashi in your own mending projects.

(Photo by Domestika)

This article was originally published on The Crafty Mummy in 2020. It has been updated and refined for Zen Stitching in March 2025.